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In this episode of DIY or Buy we will have a closer look at a small commercial 12V DC Water Pump. We will find out how it works and why it is called a centrifugal pump. Afterwards I will then 3D print a bigger water pump in order to find out whether it makes sense to DIY such a pump with a 3D printer or whether we should stick to the commercial solution instead. Let’s get started!
Thanks to Trinamic Motion Control for sponsoring this video and sending an early version of their DOCK5 board, which features the ROCINANTE chip with integrated RISC-V processor.
Visit https://www.trinamic.com/ to get awesome motor control ICs.
Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats
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source
I noticed that quite a few people are disappointed that I did not improve the 3D printed pump with a metal shaft. So here is a quick explanation why I stopped at that point. The reason is quite simple and is called time. I already spent 60 hours on this project when I got to the point when the shaft broke. That of course includes everything like planning, getting parts, writing a script, doing test, filming,……… Of course I could have tried improving the pump with a metal shaft but due to other problems I noticed that come with such a 3D printed design, I decided that such an option would not be sufficient for my garden and declared buy as the winner. If I would not have done that, then there might have been a successful water flow with the 3D printed pump but then again I would probably not have enough time to produce the next video for my channel. I appreciate all your feedback and I also love to tinker and get things to work. But I still have to think about getting content out regularly because this is my full time job. You can always support me through Patreon if you do not like this concept. So I can pretty much independently decide how much time I want to spend on projects instead of thinking about how to please the YouTube algorithm. Thanks for understanding.
DO IT OVER
YOUR BLADES ARE 3D PRINTED BACKWARDS) (
Really nice video!
radial movement of the shaft fucked up this project.you waste the time of everyone here watching this
Managed to print a submerged pump in less than 60 hours. Just a matter of learning what doesn't work from videos like this.
You could've printed a matching gasket with TPU. 🙂
i can hear that you a german guy
What is the ball race for? Its fit on the impeller shaft is like a 'frankfurter in a top-hat'
You can sand cast your own metal part pretty easily.
If you don't know some single use pens are quite strong you could have used them
Well no shit plastic cant handle the for of a powerful motor, the pump would probably have worked if that was steel. the isues however is leakage, i have yet to see a 3d printed pump not leak.
that 3DP pump design is wasted
8:49 WITH YOUR SMALL WHAT?!
Random Sunday:
Me: How does a water pump work?
Yo creo que qunque el diseño este bien l apotencia del motor es importante, no necesariamente la ganadora debe ser la comercial, yo diseño sistemas de bombeo con 775 potentes sumergibles.
I designed and printed a pump using a 775 motor and speed controller. I don’t recall specifics, but it’s just larger in diameter than the motor and I believe the impeller is about 16mm wide. I could get about 18 gallons per minute reliably, any more and the impeller would fail, usually shearing the center of the impeller. Though I have also had fins fail, and I believe that starts with a single fin and results in a cascading failure.
I plan to cnc machine an aluminum impeller at some point and see what is possible with a 775 motor before the motor fails. Granted, I’m not a pump designer and I have no formal education pertaining to the subject, so someone with a better understanding of pump design could likely improve on this quite easily. But it’s somewhat educational, watching machines self-destruct is always fun!
why do you always insist on using stepper motors?? hahaha!
Also, for water-sealing, try gasket sealant next time- its like 15-20$ for a big tube at most hardware stores, and some sealants make a re-usable gasket.
Deleting the coupler and shaft to turn the system to a direct drive is a viable solution
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4sxFZqjA_k, water pump
Impeller:)
It's been a while since I've seen your videos
8:45 the captions are wild
You just stopped when met problem and concluded that DIY sucks instead of solving that problem. You could try a thicker shaft or even replace it with steel one.
Use a bolt instead of that plastic shaft for the impeller
You really should have printed the impeller at about a 45 deg angle on the print bed so that the layer lines are not in the same orientation as the torque being applied to the driving shaft, or you could have used a stainless steel rod and thread the one end for inside the pump that can be secured with a matching hex for a stainless steel nut. I believe that if you did either of those the outcome would have been that DIY was the better option. Worth a revisit then? If you have any questions about any of this please feel free to ask them in a reply under this comment, but only after you hit the like button on this comment! 😛 lol
I found that shearing forces are the death of 3dprinted parts but can be easily fixed by desining in a bolt into such axles and the thing will stay in place. So your shaft can be printed with a smaller diameter bolt inside and it will work.
I noticed in video that your 3d printed propeller rotation is in wrong direction, you must flip it and run to work properly.
In case of diy, only do it if you need your whatever-you-build to do something the commercial ones won't/can't do. Only in your head is diy a good way to save time and money, because you will waste time and money building failed attempts and even if it works first try, you most likely took more time to build it than doing whatever-task manually.
I'm not saying "don't do it", i'm only saying "plan accordingly"
I’m not surprised that your impeller shaft snapped, but would you really need that much water to your automatic greenhouse anyway?
Buy the axel print rest.
wow are you a german person do you know that im learning deutsch
i think your design have flaws, the plastic doesn't have the capacity to support the streng you need, but you can made some metal supports and use rowlock made in somemetal, and put the turbine in a better way.
All that would be needed is a metal shaft that is octagon at either end or one end. Threaded at one end the length of the pump wheel and 3D print the area needed to hold the nut at one end near bearing then the other end just thread on with nylon nut thus griping the pump vanes.
Next slip through and attach to the pump shaft as you have done. This would indeed solve the problem. If one has to just cut the nut end off a long shaft short threaded bolt. This is simple buy at hard ware store. Smooth shaft at one end threaded at the other.
Really solve the problem and as for locking down the PCB use Flex seal which is rubber based and one can make mold to make a gasket using that material and make small grove to accept that gasket in the 3D printing process of the pump case. That also includes the pump bearing seal as well.
DIY
3-D printing may be out of the question, but desk top CNC may be the answer
cool one