* https://www.superhouse.tv/39-diy-air-quality-sensor-part-2-display-version/
* https://www.superhouse.tv/episodes

It’s surprisingly easy to make your own simple air quality sensor. All you need is a cheap laser-scattering particulate matter sensor, a Wemos D1 Mini, a soldering iron, and Tasmota.

Part 1 showed how to make the simplest possible air quality sensor. Part 2 extends the project to add a 128×32 pixel OLED display and a mode button, and to install custom firmware to make the sensor last longer.

See the link above for a step by step guide.

SuperHouse:
– https://www.superhouse.tv
– https://twitter.com/superhousetv
– https://www.facebook.com/superhousetv/
Jonathan Oxer:
– https://www.facebook.com/jonoxer/
– https://twitter.com/jonoxer

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26 Comments

  1. 미세먼지 센서를 이용해서 가장 만듦새 있게 만든 유튜브 영상 같습니다! 감사합니다!

  2. Hi, Have you find out what is the reason of wrong data of particles amount? Long time I was using my own firmware for ESP32-PMS7003, but today just for fun I've tested Tasmota. While I have been looking for a way to make PMS go to sleep I discovered that all measurements are different – all PM values are slightly more than usual and, moreover, all data from particles counters are stable. Then I've found a command and sent it to Tasmota and after reboot I faced with the same problem as in my firmware and yours. Then I canceled sleep mode, and everything started to work fine. I just shared my observation. May be it might help you or followers to find out how to deal with it. Personally, I think that I will try to modify supply line of PMS to control it's sleep in this way.

  3. thank you. have you tried the display version with tasmota and using Rules for button & display ?

  4. Hi,

    Thanks for the project with the display. I will want to order a case once international post is possible, to Spain, thanks.

    So how did it go?

    Well apart from a couple of “I know what I am doing so I did not pay full attention” mistakes it is working.

    I told the IDE the wrong board, yes you had it correct and when I did it had the correct pins to talk to the sensor!

    I also did my own thing when it came to the PMS files which was fun and time consuming, much simpler downloading the zip!

    Your 3D printer and mine sort of disagree with the exact sizing or the board and so mine was not quite so good, the sensor fitted tight, the switch and board needed some Dremel mods and now they fit (ish). My bigger problem was the display and despite your warnings to be cautious, I damaged my first one and out comes the Dremel to allow the second one to work.

    My MQTT server has user and password so I looked into that and added the data in the main file. (Now I have viewed the 3rd video I am feeling a little guilty, happy it worked but oops!)

    I used some very thin wire so was able to add the earth wires all to the single earth pad on the ESP board and of course, being thin they feed into the groves in the case really well.

    Thank you, again, for a great little project and insight as to how you put it all together.

  5. Thanks for your work on this topic. In the config.h file, the Tx pin is assigned to D8 instead of D6 you mentioned in your document. to which pin should the tx connected?

  6. Thanks for letting us in on your work with the PMS5003. Your project videos are very informative and easy to watch. I've been looking at some work on this device at http://www.letscontrolit.com using ESPEasy which is also interesting. I want to avoid compiling code but I'd like the sensor to sleep when I'm not in my workshop by using a node-red flow. Can you confirm I just need to pull SET low for sleep mode and high for active? If that's the case I imagine I can do that with standard Tasmota. Thanks.

  7. Great attention to detail. It looks great! Aside, I really need to reconsider buying a 3D printer. The new Prusa Mini looks tempting!

  8. Very nice project, following along with the PMS7003 sensor I picked up recently. At present, using ESPHome, but I don't believe it has any ability to put the sensor into standby mode. The MTBF of the sensor seems like something you could bump into — too bad it needs a little fan. You might also consider PlatfromIO rather than Arduino IDE for this stuff. I find that I don't miss the profanity that comes along when I had to use the crummy editor inside the Arduino IDE. Now, using PlatformIO and Visual Studio Code, you get a great experience.

  9. Have you run across any 303Mhz transmitter/receivers that will work on an esp8266. I have several remotes for ceiling fans that all operate on 303Mhz that I want to add to my project. I bought a new fan controller on amazon that said it was 433Mhz but when I got it it was actually 303Mhz. I can not seem to find any 303Mhz devices for esp/arduino anywhere.

  10. I LOVE the little 3D case. very time I do an RPI project, I have to struggle to fit on of those displays on or in the RPI case. No-one seems to have twigged to how useful these displays are. Developing from your comments, I usuall put the time, temperature, IP address and hostname on the 4 line display. Having it just click into a case with the RPI would be lovely.

  11. Nice mechanic design. How do you keep the enclosure closed? I havent seen screws or clicking hooks.

  12. Great projekt, I am waiting for the particle module to arrive. I am a bit concerned about all the wires crossing the antenne, I dont think this is good practice.

  13. First of all thanks for the video(s), I enjoy the way you are learning us stuff in an understandable way!
    I have build one of the previous ones (and will probably upgrade it to this one…;) ), But I am having trouble getting it to report it's reading to openHAB. I connected an LED to the board and got that to work through MQTT.
    Now I must say I am completely new to openHAB or any home automation package (yesterday I have installed it for the first time) and can't code or program (ok, maybe a little bit, but only simple relays with an Arduino) so the first question is, will you (or have you already) make a video about how to make the readings appear in openHAB and then preferably in the paper ui as it doesn't need any coding. And if not what's your recommendation to go to if I want to learn more about connecting tasmota projects to openHAB?

  14. C'est vraiment un super projet ! Simple, efficace et très bien expliqué. Merci pour toute cette énergie et le partage que tu en fais. Respect de la Belgique !
    It' s à real cool project! Simple, efficient and complete.Thank you for the energy that you give and for sharing it with us! Big up trop Belgium !

  15. This is a great little project. I am thinking I might have to make one of these :).
    It's just hard to get parts if you need to get them from overseas at the moment. Quite a lot of countries have closed down as far as sending and receiving packages and China is still very slow…..

  16. Jonathan have you manufactured any more of your CAT-6 Ethernet light switches, has any company made them commercially available yet, I'm over my z-wave switches, are you located in Qld or Vic?

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