Could the answer be so simple? Are we really overcomplicating it? Find out as we slide into the slippery world of motorcycle chain lubes armed with rigorous tests and our typically non-lubricated sense of humour.
Gear breakdown:
Gear Oil : https://frt9.co/v1ev45
Oxford Mint Dry Weather Lube : https://frt9.co/e5detw
Motul C5 Chain Lube Paste : https://frt9.co/sxqt3o
Muc-Off All-Weather Chain Lube : https://frt9.co/ls8k31
Maxima Chain Wax – https://frt9.co/tg8ikf
Bel-Ray Blue Tac Chain Lube – https://frt9.co/5o00pw
WD-40 Multi-Purpose Lubricant : https://frt9.co/m2lew9
Cinematographer & Editor : Aneesh Shivanekar
Gear up for your next adventure at fortnine.ca:
https://frt9.co/98au9e
Connect with us:
http://facebook.com/fortnine
http://instagram.com/fortnine
Tweets by fortninecanada
, https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VnPYdcbcAe0/hqdefault.jpg
source
Full disclosure: I used a half-empty bottle of Canadian Tire gear oil because I had one lying around and never expected it to win. Oops. If you actually decide to buy some, it behooves us to mention that F9 and RZ also sell gear oil. Link in description. ~RF9
Teflon based means it has one of the most cancerous substance there is.
Did you let the lube dry before dousing the spinning chain with sand?
I've discovered regular, monograde, SAE 140 oil works pretty well for my chain. It flows like honey (haha) but it toesn't spill all over my wheel and actually lasts some water. I'm still trying it but it works fine so far.
Alguno que por favor traduzca el veredicto final de cual es el mejor producto para la cadena … Gracias
Thank for research,study,reading,interesting teching,good history,hiliarous,sense of humor.Help us become better rider,so many.
I don't think I've ever lubed a chain, mine are held together with dirt.
As always Ryan one of the best on all topics about bike 👍👍👍good job yet again
Hear oil that what I used all the time the best
Thx for splashing urself with chain grease for us.
😱😝👍🤐🤨👍😝
Anyone else tried gear oil? I tried Super Tech gear oil, and by the time I got to school all the oil had flung off my chain.
The results for the Maxima fling and grit test are pretty surprising. I'm curious how long it was allowed to set. I've never head an issue with it flinging or getting dirty, but I also let it set overnight which leaves it with a pretty hard dry shell of wax.
Beautiful work, totally unnecessary. 🙂
Awesome video! Thanks!
Wd40 Will reach the inner bearings and flush the favtoryseal of Grease out in my opinion. Test how much Grease is still there in the inner parts.
"Splatter" is a pointless category, more-or-less just an inverse of "Grit." Either you want your lubricant to STICK, or you don't. If it sticks, as with greases/waxes (over oils) it's usually gonna hold more grit, too, since chains are exposed, as opposed to, say, sealed joints/bearings. The problem of duplication is doubled because you WEIGHT those redundant categories each as highly as "Rust" and as "Roller" (the 2 most useful categories). Here's how to ACTUALLY do it:
A. Double the weighting of Rust and Roller category scores.
B. Keep just ONE (1) of the Splatter and Grit categories. Chuck the other one. If you keep Splatter, score it as is, since you DO want a lubricant that sticks to your chain. If you keep Grit, you must INVERSE the order (value) of Grit scores since, again, you want a lubricant that sticks to your chain, and with it usually grit as well.
C. RE-CALC: Then your results look like one of these, depending on which of the redundant categories you tossed out:
IF you keep the Splatter category, and dump the Grit cat:
1. OIL 16+12+4 = 32/40
2. WAX 14+14+3 = 31/40
3. MUC 2+16+8 = 26/40
4. OXF 12+6+6 = 24/40
5. MOT 10+8+5 = 23/40
6. PAM 8+10+1 = 19/40
7. BEL 4+4+7 = 15/40
8. WD 6+2+2 = 10/40
OR, IF you dump the Splatter category, and keep (then inverse) the Grit cat:
1. WAX 14+14+8 = 36/40
2. OIL 16+12+5 = 33/40
3. MUC 2+16+6 = 24/40
4. MOT 10+8+4 = 22/40
5. OXF 12+6+3 = 21/40
6. PAM 8+10+2 = 20/40
7. BEL 4+4+7 = 15/40
8. WD 6+2+1 = 9/40
Either way, now you're properly weighting the essential categories (Rust, Roller), and dropping one of two redundant categories, while leaving it at its correct single-weighting.
And the OUTCOME tells you pretty much what everybody intuitively knew after dropping any brand preferences — that HEAVY GEAR OIL and CHAIN WAX are the hands-down, all-around champs. Next come the "especially-for-chains" products, each of which has at least one category that's an Achilles heel. And the all-purpose household stuff (along with the Bel-Ray) are really a bad idea except maybe in a pinch.
Holy shit, you're my new hero!!!! This was FABULOUS! Super informative and super useful! Thanks so much for sharing the info!!!
WD40 is not lube. It’s a solvent
Buy a shaft drive. Next!
Buying ipone and some gear oil now! Thanks YOU! for all the testing you did to make this video i know how much work goes into one of these videos!
Your voice is super cringe worthy ……. Mute and engage CC you thank me later …. Corny ass Chad speak
Well done!
Wheres liquid wrench?
White lithium has always served me well, easy to carry when travelling and not a lot of fling
Tempted to buy motul paste for the ease of application….anyone else?
A lot of effort just to educate us thank you very much 🙂
Fortnine at nine
What about used engine oil?
Helps chains to die sooner 👀.. and most cyclists use gear oil as a last option 🤷
You crack me up while at the same time being very informative
I’ve owned only one chain driven bike all the rest were shaft drive. I absolutely hated the inconvenience that comes with it.
Ryan, absolutely superb vid as ever! I love how you pick an engaging subject and then science the s*it out of it👌 I wish you were my science teacher back in the day, then I would have been looking forward to going to school 😎
I put a scottoiler system in, so far so good
If i use 140 grade gear oil instead of 90 grade gear oil?