I’ve created another video go explain my DIY spot welder and to cover a lot of the most asked questions I’ve been getting on previous videos and dispelling solve of the myths surrounding this method of spot welding.

**Nickel Strips**
http://amzn.to/2j8HQvo
http://amzn.to/2jBqHhV
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Pure-Nickel-Strap-Strip-Spot-Welding-battery-12mm-x-0-15mm-12×0-15-40A/263068537518

**Solenoid Relay**
http://amzn.to/2j5cLc8
http://amzn.to/2j7GpNR

**Choc Block (Electrical Connector)**
http://amzn.to/2AScb90

**Copper Nails**
http://amzn.to/2hOHNbD

**Heavy Gauge Cable**
http://amzn.to/2j4Vy2G

**Momentary Switch**
http://amzn.to/2jF69Fv
http://amzn.to/2j6hfz8
http://amzn.to/2j5rLXy

My Website: http://kevindark.co.uk
Evolve Battery Upgrade: http://kevindark.co.uk/blog/read/10

, https://i.ytimg.com/vi/b_kGgPVrcCI/hqdefault.jpg

source

37 Comments

  5. I would say any time you tap off a battery there should be a fuse. In this case the solenoid should have a fuse, the welding line I suppose can't have one, or it would have to be so large it wouldn't matter. Possibly a slow blow would work.

  6. Seems like tungsten tig electrodes would be better than soft copper? I bet most people don't know the difference between AH and CCA.

  7. OK. When you engage the switch, you ARE NOT BREAKING THE NEGATIVE! Dumbass. You are CLOSING the negative path. Say it right! Thumbs down from me just because of that stupidity.

  10. Your first video was definitely clear enough to understand the setup but definitely appreciate the update

  11. Very dangerous. It worked well until after a couple welds the solenoid stuck closed and it melted a hole though the 18650 causing it to rocket around and ignite several things on fire. I put everything out but there is definitely some burn damage in that room of the house. Was using a 250 cca battery (tested with high quality tester) and a 400a solenoid. Definitely regret trying this.

  12. If only there were a simple timer chip that would let you control the pulse down to microseconds. A monostable 555 timer circuit would fit the bill. You'd just need a MOSFET to switch the relay coil and Bob's your auntie.

  13. From what i know electricity flows from + to – and not the other way around.

  14. This is a very good setup, the only thing I would add is an Arduino and a potentiometer to vary the milliseconds I want the solenoid to be on , and a 200 amps time delay fuse.

  19. Lots of information before I start to build my own lead acid-solenoid-push on button SIMPLE YET EFFECTIVE SPOT WELDER ! Thumbs up!!

  22. I can explain the motivation of those who have expressed their concerns that the battery is going to blow up if you short the terminals together. Ignorance is a powerful fuel for the fire of fear, to put it metaphorically. You are shorting the terminals together for what i can estimate is about 10 to 20 milliseconds. Nothing is going to happen to the cable of that gauge, or the battery even if you prolong that bridging time 10 fold, which would then locally fry the nickel strip, as it is the point of greatest resistance due to its thickness of 0,15 mm.

  24. Most terrible DIY I've ever seen. The guy could not explain properly the basics and fumbled endlessly!

  25. It's great that you have kept everything so simple and it works. Screwfix or Toolstation do a 30A ceramic block connector. That nickel strip will glow white hot at hundreds of amps for a long time. It is the ohmic area(lots of routes probe to probe) resistance, it is not a fine wire! Spot welding is 'resistance welding' – if there was a short circuit then it wouldn't heat up. The probes provide a localised area of contact with high resistance. For the minimum safety instead of just trying to tap the button = I suggest a simple circuit of a resistor and a capacitor that charges up to 12v, then your switch button connects that to the solenoid coil. If the pulse is a bit short, press again.

  28. Here is a video that shows how to set the timing ranges for the DROK and other branded timers such as PEMENOL LCD. Etc.(Both my DROKS & PEMENOL look and work the same and I don't really know who is the manufacture ❓)
    These timers replace the button for fast consistent welds or if you want a foot pedal. For my spot welder I choose the 00.01seconds to 00.09 seconds range (faster than a human can mash a button consistently). There is no benefit to set the timer speed faster than the speed of the heavy solenoid ( mine is an Endis brand with fast 0.025 second speed so programing lower than 0.03 seconds is frugal) . If thick nickel maybe you will need to jump up to the next range (I haven't tried that since I only use 0.015 thick Nickle strips). My range gives me perfect welds without blackening or burn thru.👎😲
    Here is the "How to set video":
    https://youtu.be/3hLm6ldcxXc
    Use your back button to come back to this YouTube video.

  29. Today I am going to try some test welds on old alkaline batteries using 0.015 pure Nickle strips. I will be trying both a foot peddle & momentary switch held down. I will have both switches fed into the DROK timer with ranges of 0.01 seconds on up.
    I want to find the ideal timing setting with no burn thru or black welds 💥😮.

  30. With respect, I may have misunderstood the connection description as it appears the red wire is connected to the positive at one post and directly connected to the other post.

  31. i'm not sure why you have a hard connection to one terminal of the solenoid and then a red wire that connects the positive to the other solenoid terminal? Does this not ensure that power is constant at the electrodes?

  32. Thank you for posting this video, show how you connect the mementery switch please.

  37. Hi, very useful. But, I have a problem, my welder melts nickel strips with big spark. I use battery of cca 410.

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