This is a detailed multi-part video series in which I build a gasoline powered 12 volt DC generator and battery charger. I cover the why’s, how’s and reasoning behind the decisions I make and include the mistakes I make along the way so that you can avoid making the same ones.
I do not have any special fabrication skills (and it shows) so this project is one that most anyone with enough time and motivation can successfully complete.
I cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Be sure to read and follow all safety instructions for any equipment seen or implied in this video, and use safe practicies when working with potentially dangerous equipment. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
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good video
I watched all that for no start up…ffs
i've built a few of these over the years using standard lovejoy couplings and have never had any problems, but i don't use the black rubber spiders. i use the hytrel ones, they keep changing the colors but as long as it's hytrel it will last. the problem with the black ones is that they compress too easily and absorb too much vibration which leads to harmonic vibrations that quickly wear out the material. the blue polyurethane ones are just as soft as the black ones so don't use those, they exist because they are more oil-resistant than the black ones. another important thing with lovejoys is that although they are designed to run with some shaft misalignment, they work much better if you can get the alignment as close to 100% as possible. your setup using pre-threaded pipe nipples isn't that great unless every pipe is exactly the same length measured with an accurate caliper or micrometer, not a tape measure or ruler.
Well if you want to know an old mechanics trick, glue a small magnet to the center of the back bearing of the alternator…it makes it self starting but the pull against the motor isn't much at cranking speed…this eliminates the switch..I found this out quite by accident one day long ago…there's ya an upgrade
resistor ?? 10 ohm 10 watt ?/ probably..
the coupling, is ok. NOT for long term, continuous use. Place the battery to be charged, under the genset/on bottom shelf. Weight will hold all down….salvaged an old UPS unit, yes ! they are inverter gold mines, find them in dumpsters/dumps, etc…
It was interesting until it turnes in to an oil lesson. There you lost me…
Nice improvements from your exhaust/noise video in this series.
15 minutes of bla, bla bla bla,,
assalumu alaikum pak mesin apakah bisa untuk lampu pak klu mati lampu
All that talk with no action. Can I please get back the 15 minutes of my life that I wasted on this video???????????????
Still wondering why we’re generating ac, converting it to dc, then converting it back to ac. Tap into the delta !
Have would it be jump starting a car?
This is a really cool project! Have you checked any research data of synthetic oil in air cooled engines? The synthetic is cleaner and slicker but does not transmit the heat out of the engine as well which is part of the cooling for an air cooled engine. Checking the temps during running you will see heads and cylinders run hotter than they should. You could test that with the engine in this video. I would like to know. I don't know about the newer formulas but the older synthetic was so slick that the lifters did not rotate properly in old flat tappet engines. In roller cam engines it works great.
Nowadays if it's 5w 30 or 10w30 they are designed to use in summer.
I work in construction and in our skidsteers we use 0w30 or 0w 40 all year, no Matter if the temperature is 85 degrees or 30 degrees Fahrenheit below zero.
My log splitter uses 0w 30 all yr.
https://youtu.be/0l685GRPvRI 12v genrator 212 and HUGE semi alternator
Forget the generator. I want to know where to get that non-spill gasoline nozzle/funnel :). I'll probably save move $$ in gas then I generate in 12V!
I did basically the same thing but with a pulley setup! Engine barely idling Handel's load conserving gas and is a lot easier on the drive system. I did the same thing with a direct connect just like you did at first. But found it much more efficient using pulleys and a V belt a tensioner provides just enough attention show the Belt doesn't slip under load.
I have put some thought into building one of these.
I think that I would come from the engine with a harmonic balancer and use a serpentine belt
Also some cars like my first came with a generator so no need to jump or worry about the fields.
And Another adecuetion, man? How much money do you have to spend? Just You only buy a gasoline generator 10000 watts and…thats it! You have and inverter whit 220 and 110 volt and 12 volt for you battery sistem if you want to charge the bulk, all in one for the same price,! You wasted a lot of money, time, and genius etc! Come on man!
The good thing about belt drive you can change the ratio of engine RPM to alt RPM's. You can the run engine a little slower, use less fuel and get a few more hours out of engine.
Is that a Tecumseh or Briggs & Stratton engine?
I think you need to do a little more research on oils.
You wasted my time watching your video.
Too much talking than running the engine.
Briggs and stratton is as good as honda and plus your spending more money for a honda might as well have a honda clone
Well with me what you see is what you get and an ex engineer I suppose i get a bit impatient wanting to get to the chase.as I have already built one of these and so I wanted to see it work as I researched this in depth 2 years ago so in Queensland I eventually went solar so it went unused
its hard to really see how the electrical goes with it all wraped up together would be nice to see a daigram of the wiring other than that thinks for the nice video well done and lots of information thanks
One thing I cannot stand is waffling on like a child with zero content
In a lot of cases using synthetic oil is worthwhile, but not all. Really not needed on something like a stock VW type 1 engine, which doesn't even have an oil filter and the oil gets changed every couple of thousand miles.
suggestion, vibration damping. cut an inner tube and slip it over either side of the coupling and harmonic vibrations will be nearly eliminated.or just glue it on, zip tie it, but rubber will eliminate vibrations.
Everything here runs 12 volts. So a motor with electric start could the cats back side . And run a command line for e stop better yet .tks Fer look at rig.
I would try to put a thin piece of rubber in the coupler to help keep the harmonic's down and absorb any of the shock loads.
Muy bueno.?? exelente.
I would have thought that the motor – which tend to run at 3600 RPM, would not spin the alternator fast enough…. I would have thought to have used a big pulley on the motor and the stock pulley on the alternator, to spin it at 15,000 RPM.